Lazy Days in Mahé: From Rough Beginnings to Paradise

After a 4-hour delay from Kenya Airways, the flight from Nairobi to Mahé landed shortly after 9 pm. I wish I could say that my arrival was smoother than the journey that preceded it, but this was not the case. As I’ve already detailed in my previous post, the unfortunate reality was that I and other Black travelers with African passports were pulled aside and subjected to additional scrutiny of both our persons and belongings.

I had to endure a lengthy wait while immigration officials contacted each of my accommodations via phone to verify my stay before finally being permitted entry. The process was exhausting after an already delayed flight, and standing there while other travelers breezed through immigration only added to my frustration.

Luckily, the immigration official who attended to me was courteous and kind, alleviating my frustration, and from that point forward, my experience in Seychelles was splendid, beginning with my time in the beautiful Beau Vallon area of Mahé. The moment I stepped outside the airport, the warm evening air carried the scent of salt and tropical flowers, immediately reminding me why I had chosen this destination despite the challenging arrival.

Where I Stayed in Mahé, Seychelles

It took another 20 minutes to reach the Lemongrass Lodge, a self-catering apartment in northern Mahé, which would be my home for the next two nights. The drive through the darkened island revealed little of what awaited me, with only occasional glimpses of moonlight reflecting off the ocean. Having arrived too late to explore, I simply checked into the apartment and waited for sunrise the following day to begin my island adventures.

I say “adventures,” but my plan for Mahé was to simply do nothing. For the full day I spent there, I visited the beach for sunrise and sunset and explored only the areas closest to me. This deliberate choice to embrace slowness felt like the perfect antidote to the stress of travel and the earlier immigration ordeal, and Lemongrass Lodge proved to be the perfect base for my brief stay.

The apartment was spacious and clean, with a well-equipped kitchen that would serve me well during my short visit. Though modest, the accommodation had everything I needed for my intentionally slow-paced visit.

While renting a car and driving all around the island is the best way to see Mahé, this was not an option for me. The winding roads and unfamiliar terrain would have required more confidence than I had at that moment. In light of this, I had arranged my trip to Seychelles to spend the bulk of my time on the more pedestrian-friendly island of La Digue, where bikes and feet are the primary modes of transportation.

Simple Pleasures in Mahé

So my time in Mahé was short, sweet, and delightfully lazy. I was treated to the most breathtaking sunrises and sunsets imaginable from the beach. The mornings began with soft pinks and oranges painting the sky before the sun burst forth, casting golden light across the gentle waves. In the evenings, the sun would set dramatically behind the horizon in a blaze of crimson and purple, while locals and tourists alike gathered to witness nature’s daily spectacle.

I had initially planned to attempt one of Mahé’s famous hiking trails, eager to experience the island’s interior jungle and panoramic viewpoints. However, without personal transportation, reaching the trailheads proved challenging. Rather than forcing the issue, I decided to save my hiking aspirations for La Digue, where the more compact size of the island would make such activities more accessible.

As I packed my bags to depart for La Digue the next morning, I felt a twinge of regret at not seeing more of Mahé. Yet I also appreciated the gentle introduction to Seychelles that these two days had provided—a chance to decompress, adjust to island time, and prepare myself for the adventures that awaited on the next island. Sometimes the greatest luxury in travel is simply the freedom to do very little, and Mahé had given me exactly that gift.