South Korea: A Second Time Around

After my first visit to South Korea, I knew it was a country I wanted to return to. Thankfully, I got the chance three years later. On my first trip, I travelled from Nairobi to Seoul before making my way through Jeonju, Boseong, Namwon and Busan, eventually returning to Seoul. It was an incredible introduction to the country and one that left me wanting more.

This time, things looked a little different.

Getting to South Korea from Japan…

Instead of flying into Seoul, I arrived from Tokyo after spending 25 days travelling around Japan. My flight landed in Busan, where I planned to begin a much slower journey through South Korea.

Unlike my first visit, this trip wasn’t about ticking off famous landmarks or rushing between cities. It was about revisiting a country I already loved and exploring places that had caught my attention the first time around. I wanted quieter destinations, smaller cities and places that are usually treated as day trips but deserve much longer.

My itinerary included Busan, Geoje Island, Suncheon, Gyeongju, Suwon and finally Seoul. Not every place made the final cut though. There are still a handful of destinations on my Korea wish list, which only means one thing. A third trip is definitely on the horizon.

Before I continue, I’ve also put together a comprehensive 2-week South Korea itinerary that combines the highlights from both of my trips. If you’re planning your own visit, it’s a great place to start.

Arriving in Busan from Tokyo

I arrived in Busan after a morning flight from Tokyo. The flight takes around two hours, making it one of the easiest international hops I’ve done in Asia.

Just as I remembered from my first visit, arriving in South Korea was remarkably smooth. Immigration took only a few minutes, baggage arrived quickly, and I was outside the airport in under an hour.

Getting into the city was equally straightforward. I took the Gimhae Light Rail Transit from Airport Station to Sasang Station, transferred to Busan Metro Line 2 and continued to Seomyeon Station, where I was staying. The entire journey was easy to navigate.

Settling Back into Busan

I stayed in the same hotel I had booked during my first visit to Busan. It wasn’t particularly close to the new attractions I wanted to explore this time, but that didn’t matter much because Busan was really just my launching point for the rest of the trip.

More importantly, being close to a main metro station, it made travelling onwards to Geoje much easier.

When I checked into my room, one thing immediately stood out. After nearly a month of travelling around Japan, I had forgotten just how spacious hotel rooms in South Korea can be. Having extra room to unpack and simply relax felt like a luxury.

That evening, I headed out in search of dinner and quickly ran into something I hadn’t expected. After weeks in Japan, where good food seemed to be available on almost every street corner and convenience stores consistently exceeded expectations, finding something that appealed to me felt surprisingly difficult.

I quickly adjusted my expectations and reminded myself why I had been excited to come back. Korea had plenty of things I loved during my first visit, and this trip wasn’t about comparing the two countries. It was about enjoying each destination for what it offered.

Slowing Down

Originally, I had a list of places I wanted to visit around Busan before leaving for Geoje. Instead, I did almost nothing. I spent my free day relaxing, catching up on sleep, wandering around Seomyeon and researching the public transport routes for the next part of my trip.

Having already been on the road for a month, slowing down was exactly what I needed. Looking back, that’s pretty much how my entire second trip to Korea unfolded.

I wasn’t trying to maximise every day or see every attraction. I gave myself permission to linger a little longer, spend afternoons in cafés, and simply enjoy revisiting South Korea without feeling pressured to constantly move. It’s a style of travel I’ve come to appreciate more with every trip I take.

Planning the Journey to Geoje

One thing I quickly realised while planning this itinerary was that many of South Korea’s lesser-visited destinations are much easier to reach with a rental car. Since I was relying entirely on public transport, I spent part of my day figuring out the best connections to both Geoje and Suncheon.

It’s absolutely possible to visit these places without driving, but it requires a little more planning and patience. Fortunately, South Korea’s bus network is excellent, and once I figured out the routes, travelling between cities became surprisingly straightforward.

Getting from Busan to Geoje

The journey from Busan to Geoje takes less than two hours if you’re driving directly, making a rental car the best way to visit the island. If you can’t or don’t want to rent a car, you have two other options: join a day tour from Busan or use public transportation, which takes significantly longer. I chose the latter, mainly because I wanted to spend a night on the island.

I took the metro from Seomyeon Station to Sasang Station, then transferred to the Busan Seobu Bus Terminal, where I bought a ticket to Gohyeon Bus Terminal. From there, I caught another bus to a stop within walking distance of my accommodation, where I stayed for the next two nights.

Where to Stay in Geoje

I found Windy Hill Resort and Cafe on a whim and was fixated on staying there. The hotel is located within walking distance of the famous Windy Hill Windmill and it was exactly the kind of place I had hoped for.

Peaceful and almost sleepy during my visit. I had arrived slightly too early in the season to see the hydrangeas in bloom, but that only meant fewer visitors and an even quieter atmosphere. I loved it.

One of my plans was to visit the nearby Oedo Botania, but the weather had other ideas. It rained for almost the entire second day. Normally, I would have been disappointed, but this time I wasn’t. Instead, I stayed indoors, watched the rain from my room, and took walks to the nearby Windy Hill.

Things to Do in Geoje Island

If you’re planning a visit to Geoje, I’d recommend exploring some of the island’s most popular attractions, including Windy Hill, Oedo Botania (weather permitting), the Geoje Panorama Cable Car, Hakdong Mongdol Beach, the Geoje Botanical Garden, and the Historic Park of Geoje POW Camp. Together, these attractions offer a great mix of coastal scenery, gardens, history, and panoramic viewpoints, making them ideal for a first-time visit to the island.

After two days in Geoje, it was time to continue to my next destination, Suncheon. At the time of my trip, there was no direct bus from Gyeongju, so I had to connect via Jinju.

Getting from Geoje to Suncheon

I have to admit, it was a little nerve-racking trying not to miss the bus connections. Once you venture off the beaten path in Korea, English is not as widely spoken, which can make navigating public transport a bit more challenging. I remember panicking when the bus from Windy Hill didn’t arrive on time and wondering if I had somehow missed it. Thankfully, it was only a few minutes late, and everything worked out just fine.

The main reason I visited Suncheon was to see the Suncheon Bay National Garden. Visiting in early May turned out to be perfect timing. While the cherry blossom season was coming to an end, there were still a few blossoms lingering throughout the park, and the tulips were in spectacular full bloom. It was one of the most colourful places I visited in South Korea and easily one of my favourite gardens in the country.

Aside from visiting the garden, I took things slowly, wandering around town and enjoying the relaxed atmosphere before continuing my journey.

Where to Stay in Suncheon

In Suncheon, I stayed at Stay Dooroo, a lovely guesthouse that served some of the best breakfasts of my entire trip. Every morning began with a beautifully prepared homemade meal, which made it difficult to leave for sightseeing.

Getting from Suncheon to Gyeongju

At the time of my trip, there was a direct intercity bus connecting Suncheon and Gyeongju. The journey took around two hours, making travel between the two cities quick and convenient. I booked my ticket on the day of departure without any issues, as the bus wasn’t very full. However, if you’re travelling during peak season (if there’s ever one here), I’d recommend booking in advance to secure a seat on the direct service.

Discovering Gyeongju…

Gyeongju was another charming addition to my South Korean itinerary. During my first trip, I had struggled to choose between Jeonju and Gyeongju, so I was happy to finally experience what is often referred to as Korea’s “museum without walls.”

I spent two nights here and found it to be the perfect amount of time. Rather than rushing between every historical site, I wandered through both the traditional hanok areas and the newer streets surrounding them, browsed local shops, strolled through peaceful gardens, and visited several of the ancient royal tombs scattered across the city.

Walking through Gyeongju often felt like stepping into an open-air history book, with centuries-old landmarks appearing almost everywhere you looked. There were still a few attractions I didn’t manage to visit, including Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto, but I never felt like I was missing out. My slower pace suited the city well, and I left feeling satisfied rather than exhausted.

Where to Stay in Gyeongju

For this part of the trip, I stayed at Y Collection by Unboundi Gyeongju, a modern hotel that proved to be an excellent base for exploring the city. It was comfortable, well-located and easy to reach from the bus terminal.

Getting from Gyeongju to Suwon

From Gyeongju, I took another direct intercity bus, this time to Suwon. As there was only one direct service each day and Gyeongju is a popular destination, I booked my ticket a day before departure. In the end, I probably didn’t need to worry, as the bus still had plenty of empty seats.

A Relaxing Stay in Suwon

Many visitors experience Suwon as a day trip from Seoul, and while that certainly works, I really enjoyed spending two nights here at Homes Stay Suwon. It’s a compact city, but having the extra time allowed me to explore at a slower pace and appreciate it far more than I would have on a rushed day trip.

I spent my first afternoon walking sections of the impressive Hwaseong Fortress, one of South Korea’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, before settling into a few cafés and simply enjoying the slower rhythm of the city.

Dinner, however, proved slightly more challenging. Like several places I encountered in Korea, many restaurants catered to groups and served meals designed for two or more people. After wandering around for quite some time without finding somewhere suitable for a solo diner, I eventually embraced the convenience store experience and enjoyed a surprisingly satisfying meal instead.

The following day, I visited the Starfield Shopping Mall, home to Suwon’s impressive Starfield Library. If you’ve seen the famous library at COEX Mall in Seoul, this one offers a similar experience on a slightly smaller scale. Even if you aren’t planning to shop, it’s worth visiting just to admire the architecture and browse the book displays.

Overall, I found Suwon to be a pleasant and underrated stop. Could it be visited as a day trip? Absolutely. Did I regret spending two nights there? Not at all.

Returning to Seoul

My final stop on this trip was Seoul, where I spent my last two days before flying home. Frequent trains and buses connect Suwon with Seoul and the journey takes around an hour depending on which service you choose.

I kept my itinerary light and, this time, stayed near Myeongdong, within walking distance of Namsangol Hanok Village and the bustling shopping streets. It was the perfect place to unwind, enjoy a bit of last-minute sightseeing, and pick up a few skincare items before heading to the airport.

Travelling through South Korea at a slower pace allowed me to appreciate places I might otherwise have rushed through. And although I managed to tick several destinations off my wishlist, I somehow left with an even longer one. Places like Andong, Sokcho, Gangneung and Jeju Island are still waiting, which means I already have a good excuse to start planning trip number three!