I thought long and hard about whether to visit Livingstone during high-water or low-water season. My concern was simple: I wanted to actually see Mosi-Oa-Tunya (Victoria Falls). Not just stare into a wall of mist. Not just feel the spray on my face. I wanted a real, clear view of the falls without being completely soaked, and I genuinely wasn’t sure that was possible during high water.
Coming back to write this post, I reread all the research I’d done before the trip and finally caught what I had missed the first time around. Somehow, I had convinced myself that getting a proper glimpse of the falls in high-water season was completely out of the question. That is simply not true. Yes, some viewpoints get covered by the sheer force of the water, but a few great ones remain completely visible.
You can absolutely appreciate the raw ferocity of Victoria Falls, catch clear views from different vantage points, and still walk away soaked from the spray. High-water season is a great time to go. I’ll break all of that down properly later in this post.
What I can tell you right now is that Livingstone caught me completely off guard. It is wild and deeply beautiful in a way that is hard to put into words. If you have been dreaming about Victoria Falls, or wondering whether a Zambia trip is worth the journey, I am here to tell you it absolutely is. Let’s get into it.
To kick off this post, let’s talk about how to get to Livingstone, Zambia. At the time of this writing, only four airlines fly to Livingstone: Kenya Airways, Airlink, Proflight Zambia, and Zambia Airways. So, chances are that you will be connecting on one of these flights.
How to Get to Livingstone from Nairobi
As a Nairobi resident, Kenya Airways was the obvious choice for getting to Livingstone. The journey takes just over three hours, though at a pretty steep price. Still, I chose this option over the slightly cheaper alternative of flying into Lusaka and then either catching a local flight or enduring an eight-hour road trip afterwards.
My flight departed Nairobi at 07:30 and landed in Livingstone at 09:45 a.m. Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport is small and easy to navigate, and within just a few minutes, I was through immigration after a genuinely pleasant first welcome into Zambia.
I had not pre-arranged a taxi because I planned to use the Yango app. Unfortunately, it did not work in Livingstone, so I ended up taking one of the airport taxis instead. For $25, the driver (Ken: +260975568565) took me on a 20-minute journey into town and onward to my first accommodation, The Victoria Falls Waterfront Lodge.
Where to Stay in Livingstone – On a Budget
While planning this trip, I was curious to see how Livingstone could be experienced across different budgets. So, when choosing accommodations, I decided to try three categories – budget, mid-range, and luxury.
My budget pick was The Victoria Falls Waterfront Lodge. Here, I spent two nights in one of their tented accommodations. The setup was simple but comfortable, with two small beds inside a spacious tent and shared bathrooms and toilets nearby. At around $38 per night, including breakfast, I thought it offered incredible value, especially considering the location.
Situated right on the banks of the Zambezi River, the setting felt hard to beat for that price point. Of course, Camping-style accommodation isn’t for everyone, so it’s worth noting that the lodge also offers lovely standard rooms at a much lower price point than the luxury properties nearby, including its sister property, David Livingstone Safari Lodge & Spa.
I will be writing separate blog posts with more detailed reviews of The Victoria Falls Waterfront Lodge, Radisson Blu Mosi-oa-Tunya Livingstone Resort, and The Royal Livingstone Victoria Falls Zambia Hotel by Anantara, which were my budget, mid-range, and luxury picks, respectively.
Where to Stay in Livingstone – Mid-Range – Luxury
Still on the topic of where to stay in Livingstone, my next accommodation was the Radisson Blu Mosi-Oa-Tunya Livingstone Resort, a little further down the road from The Victoria Falls Waterfront Lodge.
Even though this was my mid-range pick, Radisson Blu Mosi-oa-Tunya Livingstone Resort felt like the epitome of luxury to me, especially after coming straight from a campsite. Also set on the banks of the Zambezi River, the resort had an ambience that was calm, polished, and effortlessly elegant. Everything from the beautifully maintained grounds to the warm, attentive service made the experience feel elevated. The staff were consistently impressive throughout my stay.
I still remember returning from my day trip to Zimbabwe, sinking into the incredibly comfortable bedding, and immediately appreciating the contrast from the nights before.
In May, the weather in Livingstone was beginning to cool, so spending time in the heated infinity pool overlooking the Zambezi River felt incredibly relaxing and quickly became my favourite way to unwind.
My last accommodation was the Royal Livingstone Victoria Falls Hotel by Anantara, and this hotel is in a category of its own.
Where to Stay in Livingstone – Luxury
I went into this stay fully aware that it was a complete splurge. In fact, I had intentionally postponed my trip to Zambia until I could properly experience The Royal Livingstone Victoria Falls Zambia Hotel by Anantara. Was it worth it? Absolutely!
Set directly along the banks of the Zambezi River, the property feels incredibly special from the moment you arrive. Zebras, giraffes, and impalas roam freely across the grounds, while the Zambian side of Victoria Falls is within walking distance, with unlimited complimentary access included for guests. The service was exceptional from check-in to check-out, and every meal I had there was genuinely delicious.
Even if staying overnight is outside your budget, I still think this is a property worth experiencing. You can visit for lunch, high tea, or dinner and enjoy the atmosphere without paying the full overnight rate.
Now, let’s talk about the activities I did while in Livingstone…
Top Things to Do in Livingstone
I spent six days in Livingstone, and on my very first evening, I booked the famous dinner-with-elephants experience at The Elephant Cafe. As a solo traveller, this outing almost did not happen. The Elephant Cafe requires a minimum number of guests for their breakfast, lunch, high tea, and dinner experiences, so securing a spot can sometimes be tricky when travelling alone.
After a bit of back and forth with the excellent team at Safpar, which operates from The Victoria Falls Waterfront Lodge, I was eventually able to secure a dinner slot. Originally, I had hoped to do the high tea experience instead, but in hindsight, I am so glad dinner was the option that worked out.
Dinner at the Elephant Cafe
The Elephant Cafe organises end-to-end transfers to the restaurant, both by road and by boat. I opted for the road transfer this time, but if I ever revisit Livingstone and return to the cafe, I would definitely choose the boat option, especially during the dry season. It seems like a far more exciting way to arrive and almost feels like a mini safari in itself, with the chance of spotting hippos, crocodiles, and even wild elephants from the Zambezi River.
I thoroughly enjoyed this experience at The Elephant Cafe. Learning about the elephants was educational, and getting the chance to interact with them up close was incredibly special. As for the meal itself, it was absolutely delicious, and they certainly make no secret of that.
One thing I especially appreciated was that the single fee covered everything: transport to and from the hotel, meals, and drinks, which made the whole experience feel seamless and well worth it.
My next activity was a day trip to Chobe National Park. Much like the experience with The Elephant Cafe, Safpar also required a minimum number of guests for the trip to go ahead. Unfortunately, I could not convince them to take just me as a solo traveller.
In the end, though, that turned out to be a blessing in disguise because it led me to discover the most incredible tour operator, Sitali.S Travel and Tours (+260 979353608).
Day Trip to Chobe National Park, Botswana
I found Sitali.S Travel and Tours on Booking.com, and as I didn’t want to leave my Chobe trip to the last minute, I went ahead to book the outing. Luckily, the company was able to accommodate me as a solo traveller and picked me up promptly from The Victoria Falls Waterfront Lodge on my second day in Livingstone.
Even though I visited right at the end of the wet season, the game drive at Chobe National Park was still fantastic. The park is known for having one of the highest concentrations of elephants on the continent, so elephant sightings were almost guaranteed, and we truly saw them everywhere.
Unfortunately, we did not spot any big cats beyond briefly seeing a lion hidden in the bushes, but overall, the game viewing was still incredibly rewarding. One thing I particularly loved about this experience was that a visit to Chobe combines both a land safari and a river safari. I think that makes the park feel especially unique compared to many others.
This day trip also allowed me to visit a new country, Botswana, while experiencing one of the most renowned national parks in Africa. It is an experience I would highly recommend.
It took three days of being in Livingstone before I finally went to see Victoria Falls. I decided to visit the Zimbabwe side first since my stay at The Royal Livingstone included unlimited complimentary access to the Zambian side.
Cross Into Zimbabwe to See the Falls
After receiving such excellent service from Sitali.S Travel and Tours the previous day, I booked another tour with transfers to the border, the falls, and back to my hotel in Livingstone. The border crossing itself was surprisingly smooth. We arrived early enough to avoid the long queues and, once on the Zimbabwean side, I was handed over to a partner guide who took me through Victoria Falls National Park.
Seeing the falls in full force and hearing that thunderous roar for the very first time was absolutely breathtaking. The local name, Mosi-oa-Tunya, meaning “The Smoke That Thunders,” suddenly made perfect sense. I loved experiencing both sides of it: unobstructed viewpoints in one moment, and being completely drenched by the mist and laughing through it all in the next.
We moved from one viewpoint to the next, learning about how the falls transform across the seasons, soaking in the atmosphere, and walking through the so-called “rainforest,” which exists entirely because of the relentless mist created by the sheer force of the water.
Somewhere between the manic laughter, photo sessions, quiet moments of reflection, and simply standing there in awe, I felt overwhelmingly grateful to be witnessing this place with my own eyes, this immense natural wonder, the world’s largest sheet of falling water. Words never quite feel enough for an experience like this, and yet, for the sake of this article, they will have to be.
I had planned to stop at The Lookout Cafe after my visit, but did not make it, though it is worth adding to your own itinerary if you have the time.
The Royal Livingstone Express
Back on the Zambian side, after a quick border pass-through (made possible by Sitali), I checked into the Radisson Blu Mosi-oa-Tunya Resort. I spent the rest of the afternoon unwinding until it was time to get ready for dinner aboard The Royal Livingstone Express.
The Royal Livingstone Express is a luxury vintage steam train experience that takes guests on a fine dining journey from Livingstone, Zambia, to the edge of Zimbabwe on the Victoria Falls Bridge.
I booked the experience through my hotel and would recommend doing the same, as I noticed third-party sites tend to significantly upcharge it. Like many activities in Livingstone, the fee included hotel pick-up and drop-off, all drinks and canapés onboard, as well as a four-course meal.
Before we even boarded the train, we had to wait about ten minutes for a large herd of elephants to cross the road. We later passed through Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park and spotted even more elephants along the way. It was such an incredible thing to witness, and I still marvel at the fact that elephants casually walk through an actual city. Not a park, not a fenced enclosure… just the main road, like it’s the most normal thing in the world.
The train experience itself was lovely. We disembarked at the Victoria Falls Bridge to watch the sunset while listening to live music from a local group before returning to the train for dinner and the journey back to Livingstone.
The next day, I transferred to my final hotel of the trip. I was welcomed with dancing and a delightful welcome drink, given a brief tour and a surprise room upgrade before being ushered to my room in a golf cart. My butler checked me in and, till now, I’m still not entirely sure what a butler actually does, but it felt very fancy to have one. Then, it was time to explore.
I couldn’t decide what to do first. Should I check out the Falls, hike down to Boiling Pot, explore the hotel grounds, and somehow do all of that before my pre-booked afternoon tea? Why not? I dropped my bags, got settled into my new room, and enjoyed the snacks while watching zebras roam just outside.
Soon, a pair of giraffes waltzed by, and I ran out to get a closer look, only to be “chased” by one. The caretaker chided me not to run or show fear, all while grabbing my wrists and walking suspiciously fast himself! Apparently, the giraffe just thought I had food??
Later, I headed down to see the Falls, which were only a short walk from the hotel. Even though the visible viewpoints on this side were smaller, they were no less spectacular. I started the hike down to Boiling Pot, made it halfway, and decided to turn back in time for my scheduled afternoon tea.
Afternoon Tea and Dinner at Anantara
I had rescheduled my afternoon tea experience for a day earlier, but by the time I arrived and was seated, I discovered that the updated timing hadn’t been properly communicated to the kitchen. After a frantic effort to accommodate me, a few glasses of complimentary bubbly, and a bit of waiting, my platter finally arrived, and by then, I knew I’d be skipping my pre-booked dinner at Kubu Restaurant.
My solo traveller tip is this: even if you don’t stay overnight at the Royal Livingstone, book the afternoon tea experience, or at least stop by for lunch or dinner and spend time exploring the grounds, especially at sunset. It is stunning.
See Victoria Falls from the Zambian Side
The next morning, I started my day watching the sunrise over the Falls, and it was beautiful. I walked halfway across the Knife Edge Bridge before turning around, afraid that the mist and spray from the Falls would knock me over. But what a fun morning it was, spent in calm solitude except for a handful of other early risers.
Afterwards, I made my way down to Boiling Pot, the only person on the trail at that time of day. The previous afternoon, I had encountered several people, though not in overwhelming numbers, along with plenty of baboons. This morning, however, I had woken before both baboons and humans and hiked the entire trail in complete solitude and serenity: just me and nature.
Sunset Cruise on the Zambezi River
That same evening, Sitali picked me up and took me back to the Radisson Blu for the two-hour sunset cruise. If you asked me for one activity not to miss in Livingstone, this would be it.
We sailed along the Zambezi, enjoying the calm waters, and searching for wildlife. We spotted several hippos, crocodiles, and even a giraffe along the banks. I imagine that during the dry season, the chances of seeing elephants increase significantly too. I enjoyed every moment, and the sunset at the end of the cruise was simply delightful.
Helicopter Flight Over Victoria Falls
Finally, on my last morning, after several days of hearing helicopters flying overhead and after multiple tour guides telling me that “during this season, the best way to appreciate the Falls is from the air,” plus a little encouragement from Mark, I decided to put aside my fear of flying and sign up for the helicopter flight.
When I first inquired, I was told there were no spots available. Later, though, I received a call: the staff at the Royal Livingstone had managed to find a spot for me. And that is how I ended up experiencing one of the most beautiful aerial adventures imaginable.
Seeing Mosi-oa-Tunya from above, the full arc of the Falls, the spray rising into the sky, the rainbows forming in the mist, and the Zambezi snaking dramatically through the gorges was truly a sight to behold. It was the perfect ending to my time in Livingstone.
Other Things to Do in Livingstone
The itinerary I followed only scratches the surface of what Livingstone has to offer. Depending on the season and your appetite for adventure, here are more experiences worth considering:
- Ziplining and bungee jumping over the Zambezi Gorge
- Microlight flight over the falls
- Devil’s Pool or Angel’s Pool for the brave, accessible in low water season
- Lunar Rainbow Viewing: I was actually in Livingstone for this phenomenon, but decided that I wanted to see rainbows in daylight. I would certainly not skip it during my next visit
- Village visits for a glimpse at local life around Livingstone
- Safari in Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park to see white rhino and other wildlife close to town
- Lion Walk for an up-close wildlife encounter
- Boma Dinner and Show on the Zimbabwe side, a cultural feast worth the border crossing.
- Zimbabwe Theatre: Incredible live plays and performances
- The David Livingstone Museum for the history behind the name on every sign in town
My 1 Week Livingstone Itinerary at a Glance…
If you’re planning your own trip to Livingstone, here’s a balanced itinerary that combines adventure, wildlife, relaxation, and time to properly experience Victoria Falls from both the Zambian and Zimbabwean sides.
- Day 1 (Arrival): Fly from Nairobi to Livingstone, arriving by mid-morning. Settle into our hotel of choice. Dinner at the Elephant Cafe in the evening.
- Day 2: Full-day trip to Chobe National Park, Botswana. The boat safari along the Chobe River is the highlight. Return to your hotel.
- Day 3: Early morning transfer to Radisson Blu. Cross the border into Zimbabwe, visit the falls from the Zimbabwe side, and return for check-in. Board the Royal Livingstone Express at 4 pm.
- Day 4: Visit the falls, including Knife’s Edge and Boiling Pot, in the morning. High Tea at 3 pm. Dinner at Kubu Restaurant by 6:30 pm.
- Day 5: Breakfast on the Anantara jetty. Helicopter flight if a spot is available. Late afternoon Zambezi sunset cruise from the Radisson.
- Day 6: Enjoy breakfast, optional spa morning. Transfer to the airport by 3:30 pm. Fly Livingstone to Nairobi or onward destination.
How many days do you really need?
This depends on the activities you are interested in. I believe 3 days is the minimum time to spend here – that’s if you add it on to another trip. Otherwise, 5-7 days is perfect.
When is the best time to visit Livingstone?
This is the question I kept going back to before booking, and honestly, the most important tip in this guide.
Victoria Falls has two distinct seasons, and each gives you a completely different experience:
High water season (March to May) is when the Zambezi River is at full force, and Mosi-Oa-Tunya earns its name, “The Smoke That Thunders.” The mist is so intense that you can get drenched just standing at the viewpoints. The roar is overwhelming in the best way possible. The falls are dramatic, powerful, and genuinely awe-inspiring. I visited in early May, and it was spectacular.
Low water season (August to December) gives you clearer views of the actual rock face and allows access to activities like Devil’s Pool at the very edge of the falls. The falls are quieter and more photogenic in certain ways.
The sweet spot for most travellers? May, June, September, or early November. You get the best of both worlds: peak flow without the absolute peak-season crowds that come in July and August.
Can you visit Livingstone on a budget?
I don’t think that Livingstone is particularly a budget destination. The flights alone (from Africa) drive the costs up significantly, and activities can run on the high side. That said, you can save costs by choosing your activities and accommodations wisely.
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Final Thoughts
Livingstone, Zambia, is one of those places that rewards you far beyond what you expect. It is close enough to Nairobi to be a long-weekend option if you stretch it, and rich enough in experiences to fill a full week if you have one. Whether you travel as a first-time African visitor or someone who has done multiple trips on the continent and wants something different, Livingstone has a way of staying with you. The smoke does not just thunder. It lingers.
